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Good Eats

November 24, 2004

Tulanian chefs
tulanian@tulane.edu
Michael DeMocker

Good Eats illustration by Mark Andresen Acme Oyster House - Oyster Dressing

2 pints P&J Brand Oysters (Suppliers to Acme Oyster House)
1 cup vegetable oil
20 chicken gizzards
3 cups of Italian bread crumbs
5 chopped chicken livers
2 medium onions
1 bunch of celery
1 sweet pepper
15 sprigs of parsley
1 small loaf stale French bread
15 green onions
Salt and pepper
1 turkey gizzard & liver

Boil livers and gizzards in 3 cups of water, (KEEP BROTH). Soak French bread and bread crumbs for 10 minutes. Drain excess liquid. Chop celery, onions, green onions and sweet pepper in food processor or blender. Chop all gizzards and livers in food processor or blender. Poach oysters for 4 minutes. Chop the poached oysters and save oyster liqueur. Simmer, in oil, all chopped vegetables on medium-low heat for 5 minutes. Add drained bread ingredients. Add chopped oysters and oyster liqueur. Add butter, parsley and broth. Salt and pepper to taste. Simmer on low heat for about 1/2 hour or until the dressing become dry enough for your taste. Serves 10-15

Arnaud's - Oysters Bienville

2/3 cup finely chopped mushrooms
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup brandy
1-1/2 teaspoons finely minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon cayenne
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup heavy cream
6 tablespoons grated Romano cheese
1 tablespoon flour
4 tablespoons dry bread crumbs
1/2 pound boiled shrimp, finely diced
1/4 cup finely minced parsley
2 dozen oysters on the half shell, drained
4 pans rock salt

In a large, heavy saucepan, sautee the 2/3 cup chopped mushrooms quickly in a small amount of vegetable oil. Remove from pan and set aside. In the same pan, melt the 4 tablespoons unsalted butter and render the garlic and shallots, stirring frequently until soft. Add the diced shrimp, then sprinkle in the flour. Stir all together, add the reserved mushrooms. Deglaze pan with the brandy while stirring constantly. Stir in the heavy cream, cook until smooth before adding Romano cheese, dry bread crumbs and parsley, salt, pepper and cayenne. A small amount of milk may be added if the mixture is too thick. Remove from heat, allow to cool then refrigerate for about 1-1/2 hours. Half an hour before you plan to bake the oysters, place the pans of rock salt in a preheated 500-degree oven. Wash oyster shells well, pat dry. Put oysters on shells, place six in each pan of rock salt. Spoon one heaping tablespoon of sauce over each oyster. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes until well browned.

Red Fish Grill - Praline Bread Pudding

18 eggs
1-1/8 pints heavy cream
1-1/4 pounds evaporated milk
1-1/4 pounds of sugar
1 cup praline liqueur
2/3 cup pecans, chopped
2/3 cup raisins
2-1/4 ounces butter

Cook evaporated milk and sugar for one hour. Combine eggs and heavy cream in separate bowl and mix well. Combine them slowly pouring the hot mixture into the cold mixture, tempering and stirring the whole time. Finish with praline liqueur. Slice bread 1/2-inch thick. Make bottom layer, add raisins and chopped pecans if desired. Add another layer of bread, pour mix over bread filling 3/4 of the way. Top with pecans and slices of butter. Bake at 250 degrees for 2-1/2 hours or until custard is firm inside.

Vanilla Sauce

1-1/2 cups milk
1-1/2 cups heavy cream
6 ounces sugar
6 egg yolks
3 or 4 vanilla beans

Combine milk, cream and half of the sugar and bring to a simmer. Blend yolks and remaining sugar until smooth. Add small amount of hot milk mixture to yolk mixture to temper and then add remaining hot milk/cream. Put back on heat and cook on low flame until nappe (coats the back of a wooden spoon). Do not boil or it will scramble! Serves 12.

Bruning's Seafood Restaurant - Broiled Whole Flounder

Flounder
Salt
Pepper
Granulated garlic
Melted butter

Cut three slits on both sides, then salt and pepper the flounder. Deep fry for 3 minutes. Take out of fryer, and place fish on medium grill. Cook 3 minutes on each side, depending on the size. Sprinkle with granulated garlic, and cover with melted butter.

Coop's Place - Rabbit, Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya

Editor's Note: Jeff Cooperman started making Rabbit Jambalaya back when food vendors would deliver fresh rabbits to his restaurant in the Quarter, rolling them along in a wagon cooler. It's a classic dish, he says, although you don't have to use rabbit. Nowadays, he buys his rabbits frozen. 1 pound smoked sausage, cut into 1/4-inch slices, set aside.

1 pound chicken pieces
1 whole rabbit*
Water (to cover)
Boil chicken and rabbit in water 1 hour in stock pot. Remove meat. Reduce stock to 4 cups. De-bone meat into small pieces.
1 large yellow onion, diced
2 or 3 bell peppers, diced
3 celery ribs, diced.
Add these three ingredients to stock. "Sweat" on low heat until limp. Do not brown.
1/4 cup garlic, minced

Add garlic and meats, including reserved sausage. Cook on medium heat for 10 minutes. Stir frequently.

Two 14-ounce cans diced tomatoes
2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon Tabasco sauce
2-1/2 cups Uncle Ben's converted rice, uncooked
4 cups stock (from above)
1 bay leaf
2 teaspoons Bayou Blend**
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 cup BBQ sauce
1/4 cup Pickapeppa sauce

Add all ingredients to above, including uncooked rice and liquid from tomatoes. Bring to boil. Simmer 20 minutes. Remove from heat. Let sit 15 minutes before serving. *If you don't have rabbit available, you can add more chicken. You can also make Jambalaya Supreme by adding 12 ounces of shrimp, 3/4 pound of crawfish, and 6 ounces of tasso seasoning ham. **Bayou Blend/Coop's Spice
This is a secret weapon at Coop's Place. You can use it wherever you would normally use salt and pepper to spice up any dish.

4 parts salt
3 parts cayenne pepper
3 parts black pepper, ground
3 parts garlic, granulated
2 parts MSG
1 part cumin, ground
1 part paprika

Combine ingredients and blend well.
TIP: Use only granulated garlic. Do not substitute garlic salt or garlic powder.

Food Art - Pheasant White Truffle Bisque

2 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup olive oil
1 whole pheasant
1 rib celery, diced large
1 leek--white parts only, roughly chopped
1 shallot, chopped
2 cloves garlic
10 sprigs thyme
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/8 cup brandy
1/2 cup heavy cream
6 cups water
1/2 cup flour
Salt to taste
White pepper to taste
8 tablespoons white truffle oil
4 tablespoons creme fraiche
Chervil leaves to garnish

Remove breasts from pheasant. Set aside. Season remaining pheasant with salt and pepper and roast in 350- degree oven for 40 minutes until golden brown. Saute celery, leek, shallot, garlic and thyme in 2 tablespoons of olive oil until transluscent. Deglaze with white wine. Add roasted pheasant. Cover with water and simmer 1-1/2 hours. Strain. When stock is cool, remove any fat. Season pheasant breasts with salt and pepper. Saute until cooked (finish in oven if necessary). When cool, remove skin and julienne. Set aside meat for garnish. In another pot, heat 1/2 cup olive oil. Incorporate flour to make a roux. Deglaze with brandy. Add pheasant stock and whisk to incorporate roux. Simmer 1/2 hour. Add cream. Season with salt and pepper.

To serve: Heat julienned pheasant breasts. Place in bowl. Ladle soup over meat. Place dollop of creme fraiche in center. Drizzle truffle oil on top. Garnish with chervil.

Gabrielle Restaurant - Slow-Roasted Duck with Orange-Sherry Sauce

2-1/4 pounds yellow onions, peeled and coarsely chopped
1/4 pound unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, solid
Two 5-pound ducks, rinsed and patted dry
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 large fresh rosemary sprigs
2 medium red bell peppers
2 medium carrots, jullienned
2 cups fresh orange juice
1 cup dry sherry
1/2 cup soy sauce
4 ounces small oyster mushrooms, trimmed 4 fresh chives, cut into 1-inch lengths

Preheat oven to 500 degrees. In a large bowl, toss onions with melted butter. Season ducks inside and out with salt and pepper and place 2 rosemary sprigs in each cavity. Tightly pack each cavity with onions and set the ducks in a large roasting pan. Roast the ducks for 10 minutes. Lower temperature to 300 degrees and loosely cover pan with foil. Roast the ducks for 4-1/2 hours, draining fat every hour. Roast peppers directly over a gas flame until charred all over. Place peppers in a paper bag for 10 minutes to steam; peel and remove seeds, then cut into strips. Blanch carrots for one minute, then drain and put aside with peppers. Discard fat from roasting pan; add orange juice, sherry and soy sauce; roast ducks, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Transfer to a platter and allow to cool slightly. Pour pan juices into a saucepan, discarding any pieces of duck skin. Skim the fat off the sauce and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce to 1-1/2 cups; strain and return to saucepan. Halve the ducks. Discard the onions, rosemary and all bones except the leg bone, keeping the breast attached to the leg. Rewarm in a low oven. Saute oyster mushrooms in butter. Add carrots, peppers and sauce. Salt and pepper to taste. To serve: Place sauce on plate with pasta or fried shoestring potatoes, duck on top, then garnish with vegetables and chives. Serves 4.

Galatoire's - Shrimp Remoulade Serves six

1 stalk celery
1 bunch green onions
1 bunch parsley
1/2 large onion
1 cup ketchup
1 cup tomato puree
I cup Creole mustard
1 cup red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons prepared horseradish
2 teaspoons Worchestershire sauce
1/2 cup salad oil
1-1/2 ounces paprika
32 boiled shrimp

Mince celery, green onions, parsley and onions in a food processor. Add ketchup, tomato puree, mustard, vinegar, horseradish and oil to the vegetables and mix all ingredients in the processor, adding paprika last. Refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours before serving. Coat the shrimp evenly with the sauce in a mixing bowl and serve on a bed of lettuce.

Gambino's Bakery - Chocolate Chip Cookies

10 pounds granulated sugar
10 pounds brown sugar
6 pounds butter
6 pounds shortening
3 ounces salt
6 ounces baking soda
Cream ingredients on medium speed.

Add:
10 pounds whole eggs
18 pounds cake flour
Mix 1 to 2 minutes, then add:
18 pounds Hershey chocolate chips
5 pounds pecans (medium pieces)

Mix approximately 2 minutes on low speed, then whip on second speed for 30 seconds. Bake at 350 degrees. Yields 8 cookies per pound; entire recipe yields approximately 675 cookies.

Jacques-Imo's Cafe - Alligator, Sausage and Shrimp Cheesecake Yields: 1 pie - 13 servings

1/3 cup bread crumbs
1 cup Parmesan cheese
4 ounces butter, melted
1-3/4 pounds cream cheese, softened
4 eggs
2/3 cup cream
1 cup smoked Gouda cheese, grated
1 cup onion, medium diced
1/2 cup green pepper, medium diced
1/2 cup yellow bell pepper, diced
1/2 cup red bell pepper, diced
1 pound alligator sausage, diced (2 cups)
1/4 cup green chili pepper, diced
1 pound shrimp, diced (2 cups)
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon chipotle powder
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon white pepper

Mix bread crumbs and cheese; add butter and press into a 10-inch springform pan. Bake 10 minutes in a 400-degree oven to set crust. Whisk the cream cheese until smooth; add eggs and whisk; then add cream and the Gouda cheese. Saute veggies with spices until soft. Add shrimp and cook until just done. Add sausage and chili pepper, and fold into cream cheese mixture. Wrap foil around pan to prevent leakage and fill pan with mix. Bake in water bath (a 2-inch hotel pan filled 1/3 with water) in a 450-degree oven for 1-1/2 to 2 hours. Remove when an inserted knife comes out clean and the filling is set. Cool before cutting. Remove from spring mold, cut into 13 pieces.

Kay Roussell - Chipotle Shrimp

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 slices thick slab bacon
1 cup chopped onion
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
1 cup cider vinegar
1 cup fresh squeezed orange juice, divided
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 cup cane syrup
One 24-ounce can whole tomatoes
2 tablespoons chopped canned chipotle chilies (or more to taste)
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon ground ginger
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 pounds fresh shrimp, peeled
1 tablespoon ground ancho powder
1 cup chopped green onions
Chopped fresh cilantro to taste

In large non-reactive skillet, fry bacon. Remove from pan and hold. Add olive oil to pan; heat until hot. Add onions and saute until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add garlic, cumin, oregano, and ginger; cook 1 minute longer, stirring constantly. Add vinegar and 1/2 cup orange juice to pan; cook until reduced by three-fourths. Add the tomatoes, brown sugar, cane syrup, and chipotles. Bring to a boil; reduce to a simmer and cook 10 minutes. Return bacon to mixture. Puree mixture. It may be thinned with stock or water if too thick.

Taste to adjust seasonings. Season shrimp with salt, pepper, and 1 tablespoon ground ancho powder. In large saute pan, cook shrimp just until turning pink. Remove from pan. Deglaze pan with remaining 1/2 cup orange juice; cook until syrupy. Add chipotle sauce and bring to boil. Add shrimp and toss to coat. Sprinkle with green onions and chopped cilantro. Chipotle sauce may be made ahead. Keep in refrigerator up to one week. Great served over goat-cheese grits. Six servings.

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